Before I share today’s recipe, I just wanted to thank everybody who read and commented on my last post containing my thoughts about blogging. Those thoughts have been marinating in my mind for some time now, and I briefly wrote that I was initially hesitant to write about them in the first place. At best, I was worried that some people would think that I was knocking their careers and chosen professions as bloggers. At worst, I feared folks would call me hypocritical (since, after all, I monetize my blog and benefit from all the same sponsorships and networks too). But not publishing the post for fear of upsetting people and losing followers would have been the exact opposite of what I advised people to do, so I took a deep breath and hit “publish”.
Since publishing the post, I’ve received a number of comments and emails from other bloggers sharing their own experiences. It’s been wonderful and eye-opening reading everybody’s take, and it made me realize that what I wrote about was a pretty universal experience for bloggers. If anything, it made me realize that we need more opportunities to talk about the behind-the-scenes stuff and about the doubts and fears we all share. I don’t know exactly how to provide that (and, quite frankly, it’s kind of asking a lot from a food blog), but hopefully taking more risks will eventually pave the way for such opportunities.
Speaking of taking risks, the recipe I’ve got for you guys today is one that I’ve kept near and dear to my chest for fear of alienating some of my audience. Black sesame and goat milk aren’t exactly the most accessible ingredients, although black sesame is a staple in Asian desserts. Usually black sesame appears in subtle desserts like panna cotta or pudding, often accompanied by lots of honey, syrup, or sweetened condensed milk to take its slightly bitter edge off.
My favorite kind of black sesame desserts, however, are ones that are un-subtle and un-delicate in flavor. The kind that, where if you take a bite of it, there’s no hiding that black sesame at ALL. And that’s exactly what’s going on with these rolls; you’re not gonna find a “light, floral touch” here — there’s no mistaking the nutty, toasty and almost woody flavor from the sesame. And that’s because they’re filled with nothing but butter, sugar, and black sesame seeds; there’s nothing there to distract or take the edge off the main star of the dessert.
Well… except maybe the goat milk. Since I’m mildly lactose intolerant (though in severe denial about it), I’ve been playing around with goat milk as a substitute for regular milk. When I bought my first bottle, I’d envisioned it to have a flavor similar to kefir — tart, and almost yogurt-y. My imagination ran away, thinking that using it as a substitute for regular milk in baked goods would give the final product a subtle tangy flavor, similar to using sour cream or yogurt. I was more than disappointed to find that goat milk kinda tasted like… well, regular milk.
But goat cheese? Whole other story. Turns out that you can easily replace cream cheese with goat cheese in almost any recipe, giving you that awesome goaty, farmy taste. This goat milk glaze is more technically a goat cheese glaze, with that unique farmy goat cheese flavor playing very, very well with the black sesame, adding tang to all that toasty goodness.
And of course, if you’ve been sitting there wrinkling your nose this entire time, you can always, always just go with a more traditional cinnamon sugar filling and a cream cheese glaze. Which is always good too.
But I promise you’re missing out.
Some baker’s notes:
- Black sesame seeds are available in the bulk sections of fancy grocery stores like Whole Foods and Asian supermarkets. You can also find them online.
- I let the dough develop overnight in the fridge because I found that the slower rise brought out more flavors in the bread. I also liked breaking up the work into two portions, so it doesn’t feel like you’re just sitting around waiting for things to happen foreverrr. But if you’d like to just get it all out of the way, no worries! After kneading the dough, allow the dough to proof for about 1 1/2 hours in a lightly greased bowl covered with plastic wrap. During this time, it should double in size — after it’s done so, follow the instructions in the recipe to roll out and re-proof the rolls a second time.
- If you don’t have a deep-dish pie pan to bake these rolls in, you can also use a 9 x 13-inch baking pan or sheet — simply lay them out in rows of 3, spacing each about an inch or so apart. They actually bake more evenly and consistently this way (but I liked the look of the rolls baked in a pie pan ‘cuz I’m a sucker).
- The recipe starts by instructing you on how to make black sesame sugar using an oven and a food processor, thanks to this utterly genius recipe by Mandy of Lady and Pups. The recipe will make slightly more than what’s needed for the rolls, and you can store whatever’s leftover in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 month (similarly, you can make the sugar in advanced for up to 1 month). It’s important to refrigerate the sugar since black sesame seeds have a ton of oil in them and go rancid fast. However, my leftover sugar never lasts that long — I often find myself reaching for it and stirring it into my green tea or coffee.
Overnight Black Sesame Rolls with Goat Milk Glaze
Special Equipment
- A food processor
- a pastry brush
- a 9-inch deep dish pie plate (I have this one from Emile Henry)
Ingredients
For the Black Sesame Sugar:
- 1/4 cup black sesame seeds
- 1/4 cup granulated sugar
- 1/4 cup dark brown sugar, tightly packed
For the Buttermilk Dough:
- 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
- 1 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 cup buttermilk, warmed to lukewarm
- 1 large egg, at room temperature
- 1/4 cup vegetable oil
For the Black Sesame Filling:
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
- 1 tablespoon honey
- 1/3 heaping cup black sesame sugar (from recipe above)
- 1 teaspoon ground vanilla powder
For the Goat Milk Glaze:
- 3 ounces goat cheese, at room temperature
- 2 tablespoons goat milk
- 1 teaspoon ground vanilla powder
- 1 1/2 cups confectioner’s sugar
Instructions
For the Black Sesame Sugar:
- Center a rack in the oven and preheat to 400ºF.
- Spread 1/4 cup black sesame seeds evenly across a baking tray, before placing inside the oven. Use a heatproof rubber spatula to stir and toss the seeds every 3 to 4 minutes to ensure that they're being evenly heated, baking for a total of 15 to 17 minutes. Towards the end, the seeds should turn a light brown color and start to steam and smoke. To check that the seeds are ready, rub a seed between your fingers. The seed should shatter and crush easily into smaller grains, emitting a nutty and fragrant smell. When the seeds pass this test, immediately transfer to a cooler plate on a wire rack to prevent any burning.
- Once the seeds cool off completely, transfer to a small bowl and whisk in 1/4 cup granulated sugar and 1/4 cup dark brown sugar. Divide into two batches and pulse half the mixture in a food processor until finely ground; the mixture should resemble super-fine cornmeal. It took my food processor around 20 seconds of pulsing to achieve the desired texture (which you can see in the jar in the pictures above). Repeat with the second batch. DO NOT PULSE IN ONE BIG BATCH — otherwise, you risk the seeds turning into a butter instead of sugar. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until ready to use.
For the Black Sesame Rolls and Goat Milk Glaze:
- In a large bowl, whisk together 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, 3 tablespoons granulated sugar, 1 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast, 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Set aside.
- In a large liquid measuring cup, whisk together 1 cup buttermilk (warmed to lukewarm — remember that yeast is a living thing, so it's important not to kill it by warming the liquid too much; you want the temperature to be similar to that of a warm bath and no more), 1 large egg, and 1/4 cup vegetable oil. Set aside.
- Use a tall cup or a large measuring cup to make a well in center of the dry ingredients (from the 1st step) and add liquid ingredients (from the 2nd step), using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula to stir until combined. As the dough starts to form, transfer to a lightly floured counter and knead for 10 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. If the dough is sticking, you can add up to 1/2 cup of extra flour as you knead, but don’t over do it.
- Transfer the dough to a greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight, until the dough has doubled in size.
- Once the dough has doubled in size, transfer to a lightly floured counter and use a rolling pin to roll into a rectangle about 8 x 20 inches. Pro tip — the longer your rectangle, the more attractive your rolls will be! Try and make that 20 inches work.
- In a small bowl, whisk together 3 tablespoons melted unsalted butter and 1 tablespoon honey Use a pastry brush to brush the rolled dough with the butter and honey mixture. Sprinkle heavily with 1/3 cup black sesame sugar and 1 teaspoon ground vanilla powder. For more attractive rolls, make sure you sprinkle the sugar and spices evenly and completely over the rolled out dough, including the edges.
- Working widthwise, roll the dough into a log, pinching its edges to seal. Cut the roll into 6 pieces, each about 2 inches wide. Place cut sides down on a 9-inch, deep dish pan in a flower shape. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until the edges of the roll are rounded and touching, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
- Once the rolls have risen, preheat the oven to 350 (F). Bake the rolls in the preheated oven for around 30 to 35 minutes, or until the edges of each bun are golden in color. Baked in a pie dish, i's a little hard to tell when the buns are fully baked on the inside. The best way to do so is to stick a skewer inserted in the center bun and see if it comes out clean, without any dough. If the tops of the rolls start to brown too quickly, cover with aluminum foil and continue baking until a skewer comes out clean. Let cool on a wire rack.
- While the rolls are cooling, make the goat milk glaze. Combine 3 ounces softened goat cheese, 2 tablespoons goat milk, and 1 teaspoon ground vanilla powder in the bowl of a freestanding electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and beat on a low speed until combined. Add 1 1/2 cups confectioner's sugar all at once and beat until fluffy and of drizzling consistency. Use immediately to drizzle on top of each cinnamon roll while the rolls are still warm, using a rubber spatula or butter knife to spread out the glaze.
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
I'm sure you can find some in London's Chinatown. Also a white sesame seed version of these rolls would be pretty good too, tbh. Maybe for next time…
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
Hahha, thanks Kelsey. Virtual high fiving you back 😉
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
Maybe post wedding…? 😉
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
Omg, that panna cotta sounds amazing. Will you recreate it for your blog??!
Renée Kemps says
Ooooh yay for this combination! Not something I've been thinking about, but they look amazing and since I'm be the biggest goat cheese fan ever, this can't be anything but delicious. And I think you are doing an amazing job and that publishing that previous post was a very good thing.
ATasteOfMadness says
Whoa… these sound AMAZING! And overnight? BONUS!
Megan Voigt says
Aaah I don't think so! It was this chefs idea completely and he executed it himself and everything so if I stole it and made it on my blog, I'd feel like a big phony!
Anne says
I'm pretty sure you're a genius.
http://www.sprinklewithsalt.com/
Our Food Stories says
oh my…these look SO delish!! and absolutely in love with these gorgeous pictures.
also: we really love goat-milk / cheese, for example goat milk rice or goat cheese cake is so good as well. anyways, can´t wait to try this recipe <3
Thea @ Baking Magique says
I've never baked with neither black sesame seeds or goat milk. The combination sounds interesting and I'll have to give it a try in the future! After I've made all the other 200 hundred recipes on my to do list… 😉
Nancy @kindred-kitchen.com says
wow…not sure what happened here and why my comment came through as 'guest' with a reference to 'Valerie'….oh Internet 🙂
Kiran @ KiranTarun.com says
Black sesame rolls and goat milk glaze?!? I Totally need this 🙂
Gabriel Coco says
GAH! So happy you wrote about this! I've been whining about "the bug" for some time now and totally freak out when a post has less views or something, also I feel i've lost a bit of my style while wandering around insta and pinterest. I totally agree! I think if we're afraid of truly posting what we like, then we become average, and that's scared me more than not having 100 likes on a photo. Also: THAT CAKE OMGGDSN. Cheers from a fellow recovering-from-the-bug fellow.
Summer Min says
Hi Michelle! You were too kind earlier! These photos are gorgeous, I love any kind of rolls + glaze, and these rolls look like they could just be plucked out of my computer screen and devoured right now. I have actually been reading your blog for the last month or so, but I'm so bad at commenting (meyers-brigg tells me I'm an istp) as meeting new people, even online, makes me super nervous, stupid I know. I will definitely be going to the event since I live in new york so I'll see you there!! So excited to meet you!
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
Thank you so much Renee! Congrats again on making it to the Saveur finals! You deserve it; your work is so, so gorgeous!
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
Hell yeah!
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
Only in the kitchen, unfortunately 😉
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
Yummmm. I've been wanting to make a goat milk cheesecake for a while now; I'm waiting for strawberries to come into season since i think they'll make a great pairing!
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
Hahaha, I know how you feel Thea! I have so many recipes bookmarked and pinned to try, I don't even now where to start!
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
Yes, yes you do. 😉
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
Hahha, I like your pun!
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
I can't wait! I spent an hour earlier just getting lost in your blog. Your photos are gorgeous and all your recipes sound amazing! So glad to have discovered you through Saveur; I'm excited to meet you too!
Tessa Huff @ Style Sweet CA says
Michelle,
Thank you for writing this! I read this entire post and found so much comfort in someone else saying the exact words that filter in and out of my head as a blogger. It is so hard not to get caught up in it all sometimes. I hate catching myself working on recipes just because I think they might be popular and not just creating from the heart. Or limiting my Insta pics to whatever looks good together when you go to my profile (that went out the window when I had my baby boy – now it is half pics of him, lol). However, your work is beyond amazing and always be recognized and celebrated to the max. Plus, I thoroughly enjoyed your travel pics – that one hotel with the pool on top?!?! Stunning. Not as stunning as this cake though. Some of the most gorgeous pics I've seen!!!
Maria del Mar says
I want to lick the screen. I love this.
Alana | Fix Feast Flair says
I was waiting and waiting for this recipe, and then I missed it. I can't even believe that happened. And it really is everything I had hoped it would be and more. I also love that you're slightly lactose cause I am too and am sitting in the denial boat with you. Bookmarking these cause black sesame and goat milk make me do a happy dance.
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
I've never had black sesame bubble tea, but you don't have any idea how badly I WANT IT. I saw some in Singapore a few weeks ago and I still regret not buying a glass to this very day.
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
Haha, well, you eventually found it so yay! Also I love that we are both in denial about our lactose intolerance. Can we go get some ice cream when we're in NYC and then eat only half because it'll upset our stomachs? Wait, is that just me?
Alana | Fix Feast Flair says
OMG YESSSS. I always ask for a kid's cup so that I don't over eat and leave feeling sick!!!
Laura (Blogging Over Thyme) says
I totally agree with a lot of what you discussed! It is very difficult not to get caught up in some of those things, especially as you grow in the food blogging industry. For example, I beat myself up because I was losing followers on IG when I posted pictures of my baby nephew!!! And after some time, I was just like "f*** it, he's cute and I'm posting it" –> HA!
June Burns says
Those look amazing! Black sesame sounds like a cool flavor, I will have to try it sometime 🙂
cupcakemuffin says
Ooooh, I need some!!!!! These look totally amazing.
Tjasa @Sprinkle of Cinnamon says
Great post about blogging I always love to read
other people’s stories, I find it very inspiring. And this cake looks so GOOD I wouldn’t mind a big slice right now :).
Zainab @ Blahnik Baker says
What a wonderful post!! And it shares so many of my feelings that I am glad you wrote them down. I recently baked and decorated a cake just for the fun of it..the therapeutic value it brings me and I enjoyed it! Then I took a step back and asked myself 'why don't I do this all the time?'. It's why I started blogging in the first place! Since then (three months ago), I've been following that mantra and must say I am enjoying my blog again and less stressed about it! Anyway thanks again for a great post! I've been a silent follower and admirer of yours for years!
Johnna Perry says
Thank you. I really needed to read this on blogging today.
roknnagd says
nice post … you add
naseya10 says
Love the pics you had in this post. Thanks for sharing.
Deidre
Gabriella Susanto says
I was just browsing through your beautiful photos and came across this post. Thank you for this post, it's a beautiful reminder and piece of authenticity of why we truly blog. <3
zitronenthymian says
thanks for the nice recipe. i am a little bit confused about the layers. on the pictures there are four layers and in the text there are only three layers.
do i have to produce more of the dough to get four layers like in the pictures?
Michelle | Hummingbird High says
Hi there, I address these in the baker's notes:
"This recipe actually makes a three-layer cake; I baked mine in three 6-inch pans, divided two of the cakes in half to create four layers and froze one layer for a later recipe that I'm working on. I've included the instructions for three 8-inch pans, so don't be confused if your cake doesn't look exactly like mine."
Felicia says
Hi! Maybe a dumb question, but should the sesame seeds be toasted or raw? Thanks!
Michelle says
Raw works best, but you can also use toasted—if you go this route, you might want to toast them for less time than what’s instructed in the recipe.
Felicia says
Thanks for the super speedy reply!
Felicia says
Just want you to know that I made this today! What a cool flavor combo, I really loved it. I’ve had goat cheese IN baked goods before but never as a glaze. Totally genius!