In a small liquid measuring cup, combine ¼ cup warm water and 2 ¼ teaspoons active dry yeast. Whisk to moisten the yeast, and set aside for 5 minutes, or until foamy and bubbly.

Affix the bowl to the stand mixer with a dough hook. Knead on medium-low for 5 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and elastic.

Tip the dough out onto a lightly floured counter and use the spatula to scrape down the bottom and sides of the bowl for any stuck dough. Use your hands to knead the dough lightly and bring it together, about 1 minute. Lightly spray a large bowl with cooking spray and place the dough in the bowl; cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight, until puffy and doubled in size.

Once the dough has doubled, lightly spray an 8-inch square pan with cooking spray. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and discard the plastic wrap. Tip the dough onto a floured counter. Use a bench scraper to divide the dough into 12 equal pieces, about 2.5 ounces each. Gently shape each piece into a rough ball (see baker’s notes), and place in the prepared baking pan, arranging the balls in three rows of four. Loosely cover with plastic wrap and let rise for 1 hour, or until noticeably puffy.

Halfway through the rise time, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375° F. Make the pretzel wash: pour ¼ cup water in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil. Slowly stir in 1 tablespoon baking soda, stirring until completely dissolved. The water will foam up — don’t panic, this is what you want! Set aside to cool slightly on a wire rack while you wait for the dough to finish rising. In a small bowl, whisk together 1 large egg and 1 teaspoon water to make an egg wash.

Once the buns are puffy, use a pastry brush to brush the tops of the buns and the creases between each bun with the pretzel wash. Rinse the brush, then brush the tops and creases again once more with the egg wash. Sprinkle each bun with a generous amount of bagel seasoning.

Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until evenly golden-brown. An instant thermometer inserted into the middle of a roll should read 200° F. Let cool in the pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes before serving while warm. The rolls are best the day they’re made, but leftover rolls can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for 3 to 4 days.